I wrote a piece for the Daily Mail last week on how perimenopause affects women’s ability to cope with alcohol and the response was overwhelming, so I thought I’d share the longer version here. Strap in because it’s scary in places - but if we are going to drink, here’s what we need to know and how we can slightly mitigate the negative effects. Keep reading if you’re male too! There’s still vital info here.

Why booze hits women harder in their 40’s

Wine o’clock used to feel harmless. As a mum with two young kids, a glass would make mealtimes manageable and bedtimes feel less like a battlefield. Another glass (or two) over dinner would then be a reward. Cut to later and many women in their forties who’ve kept up a wine habit feel something change. Even one glass means poorer sleep. Two usually adds ‘hangxiety’ and many women report faster intoxication. The question creeps in: Why can’t I handle it like I used to? The answer isn’t about weakness, it’s biology and it has a name: Perimenopause.

A Decade of Discombobulation

Many women in their forties are still in collective awe about the fact we were never taught about perimenopause: the decade-or-so long, hormonal roller coaster that just about every woman goes through (sometimes, from mid 30’s) and ends finally when our periods stop. I didn’t even know until recently that ‘the menopause’ is technically just one day in your life and it’s a full year after the last day of your last ever period, which means it has to be diagnosed retrospectively. Menopause was sold to me as something that only happened to ‘old’ women, that was embarrassing and shameful. Admitting to having had it was akin to admitting that you’re past it. At least now it’s a hot topic for discussion, though there’s still work to do getting the message out to younger women who are suffering, thinking they are going mad with no idea what’s happening to their bodies.

So, what is happening?

During this time, which tends to cruelly coincide with the delights of teenage children, ageing parents, demanding careers and financial strain, progesterone steadily declines and oestrogen fluctuates wildly, throwing up all sorts of symptoms. And while apparently one in four of us may breeze through this tumultuous period, others aren’t so lucky.

“Around 25 per cent of women find it genuinely debilitating. It can affect work, relationships and mental health at the same time that life’s pressures peak.” says menopause specialist Jessica Barac.

Why booze hits women harder in midlife

At any age, women have a lesser tolerance for alcohol than men because our bodies tend to carry less water due to having more fat and less muscle, which means more alcohol reaches our bloodstream. We also produce less alcohol dehydrogenase - the enzyme that starts breaking down the booze in our livers, which leads to higher blood alcohol concentration and slower flushing through our system. Given that during perimenopause, as progesterone levels drop, women lose muscle, gain fat and produce less of this special anti-alcohol enzyme, any negative symptoms from drinking are exacerbated as well as making menopausal symptoms worse.

It’s no wonder many of us want to reach for a drink. But while these life pressures are familiar, what’s less acknowledged is how alcohol interacts with this hormonal chaos. Spoiler: it’s not good news.

Part of the charm of that evening drink is the instant softening of stress. It’s a ritual, it’s been used for social bonding for centuries and it feels like a perfectly natural, human thing to do. Most of us understand we’re borrowing that calm from tomorrow, however, and will admit that booze also removes willpower… so we know what happens next.

“Alcohol is a major trigger for night sweats, palpitations and hot flushes, which then disrupt sleep - and poor sleep worsens everything: mood, brain fog, resilience and coping,” says Barac. “For many women, anxiety and depression can also show up for the first time in perimenopause too, which will be magnified by having a drink.”

Fantastic. And to think, many of us still have it in our heads that red wine is good for the heart. More bad news though, ladies. It’s not.

Busting the red wine health myth

The idea that red wine is good for you has now largely been debunked, sadly. Neuropsychopharmacologist Professor David Nutt, who has spent decades studying alcohol’s effects on the brain, explains that while red wine contains antioxidants such as resveratrol, the alcohol itself produces more damaging free radicals than those good compounds can counteract. These old claims that wine protects the heart are now thought to reflect diet and lifestyle rather than booze itself, so any positive effect is negligible. As Nutt puts it: “If there is a protective effect from alcohol, it’s about half a small glass of wine a day (about 60ml) - something you can’t even buy.” And even if we could, who stops there?

The scary stuff we NEED to know

Hold onto your hats, because this is grim reading, but as Professor Nutt says, “if we’re going to do it, we should at least be informed”. So here goes:

Alcohol is already the leading cause of death in men under 50 and is predicted to become the leading cause of death in women under 50 within the next couple of years. That rise in female alcohol deaths is unprecedented and this rate is rising dramatically in a relatively short period of time. This has been driven by 24-hour availability and crucially, the cultural creep of regular drinking as part of everyday life. TV shows like Desperate Housewives regularly feature glamorous women drinking wine in the afternoons, while we do the same at home and make jokes about it with friends, creating a feedback loop of normalisation. Even wine’o clock has its own hashtag. Perhaps unsurprisingly, most of the increase in alcohol consumption has come not from pubs, but from home drinking, where intake is easier to underestimate and habits can escalate quietly.

“Alcohol affects every organ in the body. If you’re not aware of its effects, you will miss the cause of many of the problems you’re trying to treat,” he says. “It accelerates brain ageing and increases dementia risk but crucially, it is also a Group 1 carcinogen - and even one to three drinks per week increases breast cancer risk, because alcohol raises oestrogen levels and promotes carcinogenic processes.”

This is one of Nutt’s most consistent warnings - and he is blunt about this: For women, there is no truly “safe” level of drinking, only levels of lower or higher risk - and those risks arrive earlier and more intensely than most people realise.

How to drink smarter

While it has become abundantly clear that the best thing for our health in midlife is to quit alcohol entirely, many of us are simply not ready to take that leap yet. After all, a bit of social drinking fosters connection, which is good for well-being. What we can do though, is take this opportunity to reevaluate how we drink and draw up new boundaries around it. Here’s some advice from the experts:

Be intentional

Apply ‘Damp January’ principles all year round: If it’s not diarised, it’s not happening. Avoid solo drinking as that’s where things creep. ‘Zebra stripe’, alternating each boozy drink with a non-alc. Start early to stop early and never drink on an empty stomach.

Keep up your baseline health

Menopause nutrition experts like Jessica Barac and Emma Bardwell agree: Focus more on baseline health during perimenopause rather than quick fix remedies. Recovery will be quicker that way. Bardwell says to prioritise a Mediterranean diet, with meals containing protein, leafy greens, healthy fats and lots of fibre, which slow alcohol absorption and stabilise blood sugar. Phytoestrogens like flaxseed and soy are good for hot flushes too.

Stay hydrated always

Barac adds to always stay well hydrated, using electrolytes such as sodium, potassium and magnesium before drinking milk thistle afterwards (never before!). Prioritising nutrients that support the liver, gut, nervous system, sleep, muscle, mood and bone health is also crucial.

The right supplements

The non-negotiables the experts recommend are magnesium glycinate to support sleep, mood, muscle tension and nervous system regulation and omega-3 fatty acids help reduce inflammation and support brain health. Vitamin D, particularly D3 taken alongside vitamin K2, plays an important role in bone strength as well as mood and creatine monohydrate is increasingly recognised for its ability to support weakening muscle and cognition in midlife. B vitamins are also important, especially folate, as low folate intake combined with alcohol has been linked to a higher breast cancer risk. Both also advise considering a good probiotic, as alcohol can exacerbate gut inflammation, leading to bloating and IBS-like symptoms.

Hangover & Protection Remedies

Even though hormonal changes and the physiological effects caused by alcohol can’t be prevented by taking a remedy, some products can accelerate detox pathways slightly and lighten hangovers. New products such as DrinkDefendly and Willpowders combine protective nutrients with natural substances like milk thistle and vine leaf that claim to break down acetaldehyde and soften hangover fog, nausea and headaches. Prepear’s Korean pear juice claims the same thanks to a special enzyme. I’ve tested all three vigorously and must admit that my head is clearer the next day. My sleep is still a mess if I’m honest but I definitely function much better and my system feels flushed out. For me, these are now a vital part of any drinking occasion.

Perimenopause has forced me to be more honest about how, when and why I drink. Smarter choices and a bit more self-care mean I can still enjoy a glass on my terms, without paying such a high price the next day. Midlife is tough enough - but it is also the perfect time to recalibrate and start properly listening to our bodies, as well as making sure we’re informed about our choices rather than sleepwalking into ill health. For me, this new knowledge has been strangely liberating and understanding alcohol’s negative effects genuinely makes me want to moderate better. So, I’ll drink to that! But make the next one Kombucha.

Has this made you want to check out some good non-alcoholic drinks? Check out this article and this one!

Chinese New Year celebrations are approaching, so it would be remiss of me not to talk about the Chinese spirit Baijiu as it underpins these celebrations in a big way in it’s homeland.

Baijiu, believe it or not, is the world’s best-selling spirit by volume, which to us in the West might come as a surprise as many may never even heard of it. After all, only the tiniest amount makes it out of China, yet over there, it is not just a drink; it is deeply entwined with Chinese culture. Baijiu embodies centuries of tradition, customs and craftsmanship and you’ll find this potent, clear spirit used as an integral part of social gatherings, business meetings and family celebrations, where it’s often consumed in small shots and accompanied by a hearty ‘Ganbei!’, meaning ‘cheers’.

What is Baijiu?

Distilled from any unflavoured Chinese grain - largely sorghum, although wheat, rice and corn are often used, Baijiu looks most like a vodka but has a uniquely complex taste profile that sits somewhere in between a Turkish Raki and Whisky. An acquired taste for many of us more used to western spirits, Baijiu can be best explained as a family of drinks with 12 official subcategories based on production methods that give specific flavour or ‘aroma’ profiles. The best known of these aromas are ‘Strong’ (Nong Xiang), ‘Light’ (Qing Xiang) and ‘Sauce’ (Jiang Xiang). Interestingly, these aroma styles are set by fermentation and production methods, not flavour descriptors as you might expect. Age may add savoury depth, but it won’t turn a light aroma into sauce, for example.

The 3 Key Styles of Baijiu

Strong styles, which have distinctly funky and exotic, woody and herbaceous flavours, often hail from Guizhou province in southwestern China and are drunk widely at festivals as a sign of connection with others and appreciation for the richness of life. Light aroma styles with their comparatively mild, delicately fragranced flavours, tend to hail from the northern provinces such as Hebei and Shanxi. These Baijiu are often reserved for more formal occasions and tend to be less challenging for Western palates. Sauce aroma styles are so named for their richly umami, soy sauce-esque flavours that come from a long, intricate production process, which can take years. This style of Baijiu is especially popular during Chinese New Year and other major festivals and is often used for gifting, symbolising respect and good fortune, prestige and luxury. Serving it is a sign of respect and honour to guests.

BAIJIU SIPS SAFARI

Light Aroma Style

Xinghuacun Fen Chiew Baijiu, £30.25, The Whisky Exchange

A great introduction to an accessible, Light Aroma Baijiu. This spirit is soft and creamy with a moreish, subtly sweet-sour flavour and some gentle baking spice on the finish. Sip it alone over ice or it’s a good one for cocktails.

Xinghuacun Chu Yeh Ching Chiew 5 Year Old Baijiu, £30.25 The Whisky Exchange

This beautifully presented, aged Baijiu white still technically a Light Aroma style, is erring on the quirky side for Western palates, with its bamboo leaf and herb infusions, giving it a distinctive, deliciously complex profile of lime citrus with coffee bean and prune, nuts, vanilla and floral notes. It’s got it all going on! Sip this slowly neat and not too cold to allow the flavours to open up.

Sauce Aroma

Kweichow Moutai Prince Gold Baijiu, 3% ABV, 50cl, £46.25 The Whisky Exchange

A good introduction to Sauce Aroma, this Baijiu, which is made by the most famous distillery in China, is a more reserved version of the style. There’s some umami and soy there for sure, but you’ll also get orchard fruit and a slight nuttiness. The S`uce aromas can get a lot more intense than this, but start here.

Strong Aroma

Yanghe Daqu Jiu, 52%, 50cl, £45, Amazon

Made by the Yanghe Distillery in the Hongze Lake wetlands, this Baijiu is fermented in mud pits, which are rich in aroma-producing microbes. The result is a classic, Strong Aroma style of Baijiu, which hits you before you sip with notes of ripe banana and pineapple, with some sweet grain underneath and a wonderful, slightly oily texture. Not for the faint-hearted as it packs a punch!

Have you ever tried Baijiu? Tell me what you think below and tag me in socials @HelenaSips if you try some!

If ever there were ever a time to get to know whisky, Burns Night is it. Scotland’s most beloved literary party is held on 25th January and comes complete with haggis, neeps and tatties and some bagpipes if you’re lucky. Here’s the lowdown on what it is, the ritual, some whiskies to try and a cheeky cocktail.

Who Was Robert Burns?

Robert Burns, known as Rabbie to his pals, was Scotland’s national poet, born on 25th January 1759 in Ayrshire. He died young at just 37 but not before writing Auld Lang Syne, penning some epic love poems and composing an entire ode to a haggis, as you do. He also happened to love whisky. Five years after Rabbie died, his friends gathered at his old cottage for dinner and drinks to celebrate him and had such a good time, they decided to do it again. And again. By 1802, they’d worked out it should happen on his birthday and thus Burns Night was born. Two centuries later, it’s gone global - less a solemn memorial and more as a riotous cultural export that gives Scottish expats worldwide an excuse to don tartan and down a dram or six.

The Burns Night Supper Ritual

There’s a proper structure to the Burns Night supper: Guests arrive to the sound of bagpipes, mingle, then sit down for The Selkirk Grace, which gets recited in Scots. Burns didn’t actually write this, but he did popularise it. Next is the main event, beginning with a piper leading in the haggis on a silver platter and everyone stands. Someone is chosen to launch into Burns’s Address to a Haggis, building to the moment when they whip out a ‘sgian dubh’, i.e. the small dagger that lives in the top of a kilt sock and slice the thing open at the line “An’ cut you up wi’ ready slicht.” Cue much cheering and a whisky toast before the haggis gets plated up with mashed neeps (swede /yellow turnip) and tatties.

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After dinner, The Toast to the Immortal Memory kicks off a whirlwind of toasting. Here, someone reflects on Burns’s life and his poetry, aiming for something profound, funny or ideally both. Next up, it’s the Toast to the Lassies, where a chap gives his take on women (as Burns had many opinions on this front), followed by the Reply to the Laddies, where a woman returns serve. Modern versions tend to be witty rather than earnest, with both speakers trying to out do each other for the lols. When it’s time to toast, you’ll hear “Slàinte Mhath” (slanj-uh va); Gaelic for good health. Look people in the eye, raise your glass and drink. Repeat as required, which will be often.

Whisky Galore

There’s no specific style of whisky associated with Burns Night - as long as it’s Scotch, of course! You’ll see plenty of Islay, Speyside, Highland, Lowland, Campbeltown, Islands… and all as blends, single malts etc. and sometimes, cocktails too!

Want a classic example of each of these key Scotch whisky styles? CLICK HERE.

The Bobby Burns Cocktail

By the time the famous Savoy bartender Harry Craddock featured the Bobby Burns in his 1930 Savoy Cocktail Book, he was calling it “one of the very best whisky cocktails”. Elegantly minimal, his recipe featured equal measures Scotch and sweet Vermouth with three dashes of the bitter, herbal liqueur Bénédictine, stirred with ice and strained into a chilled glass with a twist of lemon. These days, bartenders tinker with the proportions and some switch out the Bénédictine for the sweeter (and more Scottish) Drambuie, which is whisky with heather honey, herbs and spices. Personally, I love the latter. Here’s a great, super simple recipe to try:

The Bobby Burns

Ingredients:

60ml Blended, Highland Scotch Whisky (I love Wolfburn Northland)

25ml Sweet Vermouth (I love Cocchi)

15ml Drambuie

Garnish: Lemon twist or fancy shape

Glassware: Nick & Nora

Method: Combine all ingredients into a mixing glass with ice and store well for thirty seconds. Strain into a small Martini or Nick & Nora glass and serve with a lemon twist or if you’re talented, shape the lemon peel into a funky shape. Serve with some shortbread and a smile.

Want to know more about drinks and rituals? Make sure you subscribe. It’s free!

Getting to know Scotch Whisky? Here are some classic styles to try.

If you’ve never witnessed a crowd of perfectly sensible adults standing in a freezing orchard at night, banging pots and pans whilst absolutely bladdered on mulled cider and singing to trees, then you haven’t truly experienced the magnificent chaos of wassailing. This ancient tradition manages to be simultaneously pagan, practical, completely bonkers and rather beautiful, which is probably why it’s experiencing a proper revival across Britain’s cider counties.

What Does the Word Wassail Mean?

The word itself comes from the Old Norse ves hael and Old English was hál, meaning “be in good health” or “be fortunate.” The traditional response was “drink hael”: drink and be healthy. This evolved into a winter ritual that falls into two camps: house-visiting wassails, where groups went door-to-door singing for food and drink (the precursor to carolling) and orchard wassails, which focused on blessing apple trees to ensure a good harvest. It’s the orchard version that’s having its moment now. Thank goodness.

The Ritual

Wassailing traditionally takes place on Twelfth Night, either the 5th of January or, for those who follow the old Julian calendar (don’t we all?), the 17th of January, charmingly known as “Old Twelvey.” This timing places it firmly in that strange post-Christmas liminal space when we’re all slightly lost, recovering from too much cheese and wondering what on earth to do with ourselves. The answer, apparently, is to go and stand in an orchard in the cold and shout at foliage. And honestly? It works.

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The ritual varies by region but core elements remain consistent. A wassail king and queen lead a procession into the orchard after dark, choosing the oldest or most productive tree. Toast soaked in cider is laid at roots or hung from branches as offerings to tree spirits. More cider pours over the roots whilst everyone gathers and then the noise begins. Banging pots and pans, shouting, singing traditional songs, and sometimes firing shotguns to frighten away malevolent spirits. In Sussex and Kent, this earned the brilliant nickname “Apple Howling,” which tells you everything about the volume involved.

By why? WHY?

The practical reasoning for wassailing is rather lovely. In rural England before reliable water supplies, cider was the everyday drink for agricultural workers, a bit like small beer was back in the Middle Ages for city folk. Farmers provided refreshment for labourers and cider was considerably cheaper than beer since apples grew locally. A good harvest meant affordable cider, which meant the farm could prosper. Therefore, blessing the trees wasn’t just spiritual, it was economic. The Apple Tree Man, a Somerset folk spirit inhabiting the oldest tree, was believed to hold the orchard’s fertility. Whether you believe in tree spirits or not, there’s something moving about that reciprocity: honour the trees, and the trees will provide.

The communal aspect matters enormously. The wassail bowl would be passed person to person, reinforcing shared purpose and collective hope. These days, wassails might sell out within days, with people travelling from London to Somerset orchards. You’ll find bonfires, Morris dancers, folk musicians, and often someone leaping through flames. The atmosphere is part historical re-enactment, part community gathering and entirely joyful.

Why We Should Keep Wassailing Alive

Orchards across Britain have been disappearing at an alarming rate, with ancient varieties lost and traditional cider-making knowledge fading. Wassailing creates a reason for communities to gather in these spaces, to value them, to care what happens to them. When people feel connected to an orchard, they’re more likely to protect it, preserve it and even, campaign for it. The ritual isn’t just about ensuring next year’s harvest; it’s about ensuring there’s an orchard at all.

What to Drink at a Wassail?

Cider, of course! Traditional ‘wassail’ (the drink is also called this) is mulled cider heated with cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and ginger, sweetened with honey and sometimes enriched with beaten eggs. Some recipes include floating baked apples or clove-studded oranges. The result is warming, spiced and absolutely perfect for January when your fingers are numb and your voice is hoarse from ‘singing’.

If you want to experience wassailing yourself, January is your window. Check local community orchards, cider producers or organisations like The Orchard Project for events. Or just gather some friends, find a willing apple tree, pour some cider at its roots, hang some toast in its branches and make an unholy racket. The tree spirits and the neighbours might not mind if you skip the shotgun bit though.

What wassailing offers, ultimately, is permission to be ridiculous in service of something meaningful. To stand in the cold and dark, drunk on spiced cider and community spirit, shouting blessings at dormant trees in hope of future abundance. To believe, even just for one night, that our voices and our presence and our attention might actually matter to the natural world around us. And quite frankly, in times like these, we could all use a bit more of that.

Wassail!

Have you been to any good ones? Let us know for next year in the comments below!

Want to know more about all things orchards and cider from an expert? Follow Clare Rull here on Substack. She is re-wilding and regenerating a small orchard in Devon.

The alcohol-free drinks industry has exploded over the past few years but it’s the rise of so-called ‘functional drinks’ that’s really turning heads. Rather than sipping a poor imitation of your favourite tipple, which may well have been packed with sugar and additives to make up for the missing booze, functional drinks are often not trying to imitate other drinks and can actually makes you feel something.

What are they and how do they work?

Functional drinks use various substances, including adaptogens, nootropics and more rarely, GABA-led formulations, designed to take the edge off while keeping the senses awake. Adaptogens are plant-based ingredients, often drawn from roots, herbs and mushrooms. These help the body adapt to stress and find balance, working gently over time rather than delivering a quick hit. Nootropics are compounds that support mental clarity, focus and cognitive ease. Some occur naturally in foods and plants such as green tea, lion’s mane mushroom or bacopa, while others are lab-derived versions of naturally occurring substances, typically used at subtle, non-stimulating levels. GABA, a naturally occurring neurotransmitter, plays a key role in calming the nervous system too when used in drinks technology. While only a handful of brands work directly with GABA pathways, many aim for a similar, softer sense of unwinding through more indirect means such as adaptogens and nootropics.

A bit more on GABA (as it’s SO interesting!)

Short for Gamma-Aminobutyric Acid, GABA is a naturally occurring neurotransmitter that helps regulate our nervous system, keeping us calm, relaxed and focussed. If our brains don’t have enough of it, we feel anxious and depressed, with any mental health issues such as intrusive thoughts left to run wild! And here’s the kicker – drinking alcohol actually inhibits GABA’s functionality, which is why we so often feel horribly anxious after having one too many. We enjoy that initial buzz so much that we chase it with more alcohol but that’s where things go wrong and this essential, peace-giving neurotransmitter becomes depleted.

Today, ‘GABA technology’ is being used with some drinks to boost our GABA levels and promote that two-drink, chilled out feeling without the booze – and the man who pioneered this in drinks is Professor David Nutt, a psychopharmacologist from Imperial College London. He first proved that alcohol works by stimulating the brain’s GABA system back in 1980 while working on his PhD. Fast forward to the early 2000s and he and his team at GABALabs introduced the idea of creating a safer, synthetic alternative that works with the body’s GABA system, leading to the creation of Sentia, the first GABA-forward drinks brand.

Try these functional drinks:

Sentia, from £32 sentiaspirits.com

The brainchild of Professor Nutt, the market-leading GABA brand Sentia now offers several products: Gold gives you a wonderful lift and is citrusy and spicy. Red gives you that low key, chilled vibe with herbaceous and bittersweet red berry notes and Black’s great for focus and party energy with its brooding smokiness and black pepper bite. Dilute them with a large chunk of ice or with a splash of Indian tonic. New to the range is Gabyr Pale Ale and Cask, which is a whisky alternative (0.5% ABV) with double the GABA levels of the others. There are lots of Dry January offers on the website too so make the most of them!

Three Spirit ‘Social’ 500ml, £25.99 threespiritdrinks.com

‘Mood Makers’ Three Spirit was one of the very first functional drinks brands around. Using a blend of botanicals, adaptogens and mild nootropic-style ingredients rather than going big on GABA technology, Three Spirit is not trying to mimic any specific kind of booze. Instead, their botanical elixirs either give you a heady, floaty feeling or a chilled out, sleepy vibe, depending on what you’re after. I love Social as it tastes seriously herbaceous with a bitter, cacao nibs-like kick. Drink it chilled over ice or lengthen with ginger ale or a mediterranean tonic.

Smiling Wolf, 700ml, £32 smilingwolf.com

Functional drinks brand Smiling Wolf have an excellent range of non-alcoholic, adaptogen-led, botanical drinks designed to support balance and unwind gently. Made in styles you’ll know and love, they describe their Dry London as ‘a wolf in gin's clothing' for example and this is for abstaining Gin lovers who love a classic, juniper heavy spirit. It has a wonderful concentration of botanical flavour and all the mouthfeel you could want from a ‘real’, booze-forward spirit. It definitely feels like there’s something chill-buzzy happening too. Also try their Aperitivo (like Aperol), Spiced (like rum), Agave (like tequila) and Crystal (like vodka).

Impossibrew, 440ml, from £2.09 each impossibrew.co.uk

Impossibrew’s ‘life hack beers’ as they call them, have quickly become bestsellers thanks to their fresh tasting, GABA-enhancing, alcohol-free tipples that taste like the real thing. They also release interesting limited edition flavours occasionally such as rhubarb and currently have a great range, including an Amber, a triple hopped IPA and ‘Milkshake lager’. They fact they’re also low calorie, vegan and gluten free is the cherry on the cake for this booze-free beer brand with benefits.

ON Beer, 330ml, £3 on-beer.com

ON Beer worked with James Jacoby who was previously part of the Sentia team to create this smart tasting beer, packed with plant power. You’ll like this if you’re a fan of tangy, richly flavoured lager and yeasty kombucha and there’s definitely a smooth buzz happening after a bottle or two. A really lovely drop that is much fresher and cleaner than simpler non-alc beer brands but be aware that it contains guarana, which could keep you awake if drunk very close to bed time!

GABA Sencha Green Organic Tea, 100g, £12.50 teamtea.co.uk

For something a bit different, have a cup of tea! Most tea does actually have some GABA naturally occurring but at low levels. When it’s processed differently however, such as this Sencha in its nitrogen rich environment, the levels are much higher than normal tea – by twenty five times in this case! There is some caffeine though, so watch out for that. This one is very green tasting with umami notes of seaweed and spinach. I like it without milk but it works well with it.

Remedy Red Berry Kombucha, 330ml, from £1.28 remedydrinks.co.uk

Kombucha is the original functional drink, likely originating in China around 220 BCE where it was called “the tea of immortality”. While this fermented tea won't make you immortal, it does absolutely deliver a gentle functional buzz. The magic happens through the SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast), often called "the mother," which transforms sweet tea into a tangy, slightly fizzy probiotic powerhouse. The fermentation process creates beneficial acids and live cultures that support gut health, which in turn influences mood and mental clarity. Your gut is your second brain, after all. Look for raw, unpasteurized versions to get the full probiotic benefits and watch out for sugar levels, as some commercial brands can be surprisingly sweet.

G-Spot Natural Soft Drinks, 250ml, £2.50 thisisgspot.com

The brainchild of actor Gillian Anderson, these are grown up, natural soft drinks boosted with nootropics and adaptogens that offer a properly fresh alternative to high-sugar, caffeinated drinks. Each has a different function and flavour profile, from SOOTHE with sage, thyme and juniper, magnesium and zinc to AROUSE with passionfruit, pineapple and a fiery kick of habanero pepper. All are delicious and feel complex enough to sip slowly like you would a glass of wine. Gorgeous.

Have you tried functional drinks yet? What’s your go to if so?

Greetings, Sippers.

It’s 2026! Wow, how did that happen? Happy New Year!

Call me crazy, but I’m wondering if your body, like mine, is crying out for something a bit more wholesome than wine and spirits after quite an indulgent festive season. I am not a huge fan of doing a totally dry Jan (we must support our friends in hospitality, after all), but when we’re at home, we can definitely reign it in. Let’s talk about the drink that’s been offering a wealth of goodness for over 3,000 years: golden milk, or as your Indian grandmother would call it with considerably more authority, haldi doodh. Golden milk tastes like liquid sunshine in a cashmere blanket with a PhD in ancient healing and I’ll be leaning into it this January to recover. Here’s what’s in it:

Turmeric: The Golden Child

Turmeric is not trying to be trendy; it has been around way too long for that. In Ayurveda, it’s called haridra, which means “dear to Hari” (Vishnu) and spiritually, it represents the sun’s healing energy in root form. It’s associated with purification too - brides are slathered in it before weddings not just for Instagram glow, but to ward off evil spirits. Health-wise, curcumin is the active compound inside turmeric and it’s brilliant for fighting inflammation. It supports your liver like green juice after too much wine, it can boost brain function and some studies suggest it rivals certain antidepressants as well.

Black Pepper: The Tiny Miracle Worker

Add a pinch of black pepper because while the warming kick is pleasing, it increases curcumin absorption by up to 2000%. Without it, the drink is almost pointless. In Vedic tradition, black pepper is considered rajasic as well, which means it ignites your digestive system. Turmeric and black pepper are your Vedic power couple.

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Milk: The Sacred Carrier

Whether dairy or plant-based, the milk in golden milk is a vessel. In Vedic culture, milk was so sacred it was used in fire ceremonies because it’s grounding, nourishing and creates ojas in the body, which is like creating a warm glow from within. Practically speaking though, the fat in milk makes curcumin bioavailable, mainlining those beneficial compounds straight into your bloodstream.

Ginger: The Grounded Sage

Ginger is warming, stimulating and has been settling stomachs since before Gaviscon existed. It’s anti-inflammatory, helping with nausea and reducing muscle pain and spiritually, it represents transformation and protection.

Cinnamon: Sweet Complexity

Cinnamon is the sweet-talker spice: warming without being aggressive and sweet without being cloying. Traditionally, it has been used to balance blood sugar and improve circulation and it adds a certain je ne sais quoi that makes everything feel a bit special. Energetically, cinnamon brings prosperity and protection too. Blow some through your front door on the first of the month for luck as an added bonus.

Cardamom: The Subtle Sophisticate

If this recipe were a dinner party, cardamom would be wearing something elegant and making witty observations. It’s cooling (balancing all that warmth), aids digestion and helps freshen the breath like an ancient polo mint. In Ayurveda, cardamom is sattvic, meaning it promotes clarity and peace. This is the meditator of the spice cabinet.

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Honey: The Team Leader

In Ayurveda, honey is considered a yogavahi, meaning it carries the properties of whatever it’s mixed with deeper into your tissues. Never heat it above body temperature though as it’s believed that this creates toxins. Add it after your milk has cooled slightly.

TRY THIS RECIPE!

Ingredients:

• 1 Cup milk of your choice (full-fat for maximum absorption)

• 1 Teaspoon ground turmeric (or 1-inch fresh root, grated)

• 1/4 Teaspoon ground ginger (or small piece fresh)

• 1/4 Teaspoon cinnamon

• Pinch of cardamom

• Pinch of black pepper (essential!)

• 1 Teaspoon coconut oil or ghee

• Honey to taste

Method:

Gently warm your milk in a small saucepan to a soft simmer. Whisk in all spices and fat until fully combined, then let it steep for 2-3 minutes. Let it cool slightly to about body temperature, then strain if using fresh roots, stir in honey and pour into your favourite mug. Ceramic is best to feel grounded, if you have one.

This is medicine disguised as comfort, ancient wisdom disguised as a bedtime beverage and self-care disguised as simply making something delicious. Welcome to the golden hour.

Wishing you all a very healthy and happy 2026. Subscribe for free for more on drinks other than wine and rituals!

Helena x

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The alcohol-free drinks industry has exploded over the past few years but it’s the rise of so-called ‘functional drinks’ that’s really turning heads. Rather than sipping a poor imitation of your favourite tipple, which may well have been packed with sugar and additives to make up for the missing booze, functional drinks are often not trying to imitate other drinks and can actually makes you feel something.

What are they and how do they work?

Functional drinks use various substances, including adaptogens, nootropics and more rarely, GABA-led formulations, designed to take the edge off while keeping the senses awake. Adaptogens are plant-based ingredients, often drawn from roots, herbs and mushrooms. These help the body adapt to stress and find balance, working gently over time rather than delivering a quick hit. Nootropics are compounds that support mental clarity, focus and cognitive ease. Some occur naturally in foods and plants such as green tea, lion’s mane mushroom or bacopa, while others are lab-derived versions of naturally occurring substances, typically used at subtle, non-stimulating levels. GABA, a naturally occurring neurotransmitter, plays a key role in calming the nervous system too when used in drinks technology. While only a handful of brands work directly with GABA pathways, many aim for a similar, softer sense of unwinding through more indirect means such as adaptogens and nootropics.

A bit more on GABA (as it’s SO interesting!)

Short for Gamma-Aminobutyric Acid, GABA is a naturally occurring neurotransmitter that helps regulate our nervous system, keeping us calm, relaxed and focussed. If our brains don’t have enough of it, we feel anxious and depressed, with any mental health issues such as intrusive thoughts left to run wild! And here’s the kicker – drinking alcohol actually inhibits GABA’s functionality, which is why we so often feel horribly anxious after having one too many. We enjoy that initial buzz so much that we chase it with more alcohol but that’s where things go wrong and this essential, peace-giving neurotransmitter becomes depleted.

Today, ‘GABA technology’ is being used with some drinks to boost our GABA levels and promote that two-drink, chilled out feeling without the booze – and the man who pioneered this in drinks is Professor David Nutt, a psychopharmacologist from Imperial College London. He first proved that alcohol works by stimulating the brain’s GABA system back in 1980 while working on his PhD. Fast forward to the early 2000s and he and his team at GABALabs introduced the idea of creating a safer, synthetic alternative that works with the body’s GABA system, leading to the creation of Sentia, the first GABA-forward drinks brand.

Try these functional drinks:

Sentia, from £32 sentiaspirits.com

The brainchild of Professor Nutt, the market-leading GABA brand Sentia now offers several products: Gold gives you a wonderful lift and is citrusy and spicy. Red gives you that low key, chilled vibe with herbaceous and bittersweet red berry notes and Black’s great for focus and party energy with its brooding smokiness and black pepper bite. Dilute them with a large chunk of ice or with a splash of Indian tonic. New to the range is Gabyr Pale Ale and Cask, which is a whisky alternative (0.5% ABV) with double the GABA levels of the others. There are lots of Dry January offers on the website too so make the most of them!

Three Spirit ‘Social’ 500ml, £25.99 threespiritdrinks.com

‘Mood Makers’ Three Spirit was one of the very first functional drinks brands around. Using a blend of botanicals, adaptogens and mild nootropic-style ingredients rather than going big on GABA technology, Three Spirit is not trying to mimic any specific kind of booze. Instead, their botanical elixirs either give you a heady, floaty feeling or a chilled out, sleepy vibe, depending on what you’re after. I love Social as it tastes seriously herbaceous with a bitter, cacao nibs-like kick. Drink it chilled over ice or lengthen with ginger ale or a mediterranean tonic.

Smiling Wolf, 700ml, £32 smilingwolf.com

Functional drinks brand Smiling Wolf have an excellent range of non-alcoholic, adaptogen-led, botanical drinks designed to support balance and unwind gently. Made in styles you’ll know and love, they describe their Dry London as ‘a wolf in gin's clothing' for example and this is for abstaining Gin lovers who love a classic, juniper heavy spirit. It has a wonderful concentration of botanical flavour and all the mouthfeel you could want from a ‘real’, booze-forward spirit. It definitely feels like there’s something chill-buzzy happening too. Also try their Aperitivo (like Aperol), Spiced (like rum), Agave (like tequila) and Crystal (like vodka).

Impossibrew, 440ml, from £2.09 each impossibrew.co.uk

Impossibrew’s ‘life hack beers’ as they call them, have quickly become bestsellers thanks to their fresh tasting, GABA-enhancing, alcohol-free tipples that taste like the real thing. They also release interesting limited edition flavours occasionally such as rhubarb and currently have a great range, including an Amber, a triple hopped IPA and ‘Milkshake lager’. They fact they’re also low calorie, vegan and gluten free is the cherry on the cake for this booze-free beer brand with benefits.

ON Beer, 330ml, £3 on-beer.com

ON Beer worked with James Jacoby who was previously part of the Sentia team to create this smart tasting beer, packed with plant power. You’ll like this if you’re a fan of tangy, richly flavoured lager and yeasty kombucha and there’s definitely a smooth buzz happening after a bottle or two. A really lovely drop that is much fresher and cleaner than simpler non-alc beer brands but be aware that it contains guarana, which could keep you awake if drunk very close to bed time!

GABA Sencha Green Organic Tea, 100g, £12.50 teamtea.co.uk

For something a bit different, have a cup of tea! Most tea does actually have some GABA naturally occurring but at low levels. When it’s processed differently however, such as this Sencha in its nitrogen rich environment, the levels are much higher than normal tea – by twenty five times in this case! There is some caffeine though, so watch out for that. This one is very green tasting with umami notes of seaweed and spinach. I like it without milk but it works well with it.

Remedy Red Berry Kombucha, 330ml, from £1.28 remedydrinks.co.uk

Kombucha is the original functional drink, likely originating in China around 220 BCE where it was called “the tea of immortality”. While this fermented tea won't make you immortal, it does absolutely deliver a gentle functional buzz. The magic happens through the SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast), often called "the mother," which transforms sweet tea into a tangy, slightly fizzy probiotic powerhouse. The fermentation process creates beneficial acids and live cultures that support gut health, which in turn influences mood and mental clarity. Your gut is your second brain, after all. Look for raw, unpasteurized versions to get the full probiotic benefits and watch out for sugar levels, as some commercial brands can be surprisingly sweet.

G-Spot Natural Soft Drinks, 250ml, £2.50 thisisgspot.com

The brainchild of actor Gillian Anderson, these are grown up, natural soft drinks boosted with nootropics and adaptogens that offer a properly fresh alternative to high-sugar, caffeinated drinks. Each has a different function and flavour profile, from SOOTHE with sage, thyme and juniper, magnesium and zinc to AROUSE with passionfruit, pineapple and a fiery kick of habanero pepper. All are delicious and feel complex enough to sip slowly like you would a glass of wine. Gorgeous.

Have you tried functional drinks yet? What’s your go to if so?

There’s no quenching the nation's thirst for ‘super-retro’ drinks. If you’ve been following the renaissance of Orange Wine or Pét Nat with interest, where two, ancient winemaking styles have finally hit the big time thanks to a combination of Tik Tok influencers, wine hipsters and Covid, then listen up. Here’s a look at the resurgence of the ancient honey wine known as Mead and how it’s set to be the next hot drinks trend.

If you’ve even heard of Mead, it's likely to be thanks to syrupy versions in National Trust gift shops adorned with images of mediaeval revellers or bearded vikings. The truth is, Mead is even older than ancient Greeks or Norse swashbucklers. Old fashioned doesn't even cover it.

Mead is one of the oldest alcoholic beverages known to humanity, with roots tracing back to circa 7000 BC in Neolithic China. It’s an ancient tipple that’s simply and traditionally made by fermenting honey with water, though it can also have ingredients like spices, fruit or hops added to enhance its flavour profile. Recently though, global sales have been projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 11 per cent by 2032, which is a lot more than many other beer, wine or spirit. It’s also gluten free, which is a bonus for those who can no longer drink beer (like me)!

Nectar of the Gods

Historically, Mead was embraced by various cultures in ancient Europe as a staple at feasts and ceremonies, often used to honour deities and celebrate important events. Not just a delicious drink, it was a symbol of social and religious significance amongst the Vikings, Celts and Greeks who believed it to have magical properties. They described it as a gift from the heavens and gave it to newlyweds to promote fertility, hence the word ‘honeymoon’! More recent associations come from monasteries in mediaeval times when production of Mead soared, led by monks who refined techniques to produce honey wine fit for royalty parties. Other versions were also found outside Europe with Africa’s ‘Tej’ and Asia’s ‘Mandhu’ believed to be early forms of the boozy beverage. But why now, a few hundred years later, is Mead making a comeback?

Thoroughly Modern Mead. Why is it back?

Recent trends have shown a huge demand for more naturally made drinks, alcoholic or otherwise, which all points back to original, ancient, non-interventionist techniques. This generally means no sulphur, chemicals or sugars added; just the grapes, honey etc. left to do their thing and ferment.

“People are looking for lower intervention, natural and sustainable products as well as being more conscious about nature and bees, making environmentally mindful choices with their purchasing,” Kit Newell from Hive Mind Mead & Brew Co tells me. Couple this more natural approach with an uptick in sales of low-and-no alcohol drinks and honey wine ticks a lot of boxes.

“Honey offers tremendous latitude for experimentation and innovation,” says Tom Gosnell from Gosnells of London. “It’s such an obvious bedfellow for health and flavour and makes a very elegant and satisfying 0% drink. But even at a mere 4%, our nectars have all the subtlety and refreshment of a good 12% sparkling wine. We like the idea of being responsibly happy,” he added.

When asked what else is driving the honey drinks trend and its potential, both makers have a clear eye on the US. Funky branding and quirky flavours aside (Peanut Butter & Jelly, anyone?), it’s clear that the US take gives Mead something more authentic that it didn’t quite have before:

“Makers there have an abundance of honey, are not constrained by historical symbolism and have more favourable alcohol duty rates,” Kit explains.

“They’re championing the liquid first, making something delicious that reflects the terroir of where the bees were foraging. Seeing it was a revelation!” adds Tom.

So, while it’s true that Mead never really went away, its rightful place in the drinking halls of history finally feels like it has been secured. Sometimes we need to travel afar to see what we truly have on our doorsteps.

Some Terminology to Know

Traditional honey meads tend to be around 10% and are fairly similar in style to dessert wines in flavour and consistency. There are, however, several sub categories to be aware of:

Melomel is what you call Mead that has had some fruit added.

Metheglin is Mead that also has spices like vanilla, nutmeg or ginger added as well as, sometimes, tea and citrus peels.

Hydromel is the generic word for mead and is often used to describe lighter, more refreshing meads.

Cyser is Mead fermented with apple juice or cider instead of (or alongside) water. It’s basically mead’s answer to cider. Expect a honeyed twist on orchard fruits.

Pyment is Mead made with grape juice or blended with wine. This category blurs the line between mead and wine and historically was popular when grapes were scarce or of poor quality.

Session Mead is more like a mid strength beer in terms of style and drinkability. Some brands like Gosnells call these ‘Nectars’.

Try these!

Wye Valley Traditional Mead (14.5% ABV), 70cl, £30 Hive Mind Mead & Brew Co.

This vibrant, golden nectar won the Golden Fork Award 2023 for its complex, beeswax-scented profile. Aromatic with a moreish, yeasty note, it’s soft and honeyed with a zinging, citrus acidity.

Viking Cherry Mead, (6% ABV) £14.99 for 75cl, Honey Mead Company

Technically a Melomel, this is bit different and incredibly moreish. A lower alcohol tipple packed with warming honey notes, beautifully balanced by natural, tangy cherry flavours. You can drink this warm too! Their classic Honey Mead version is also worth trying.

Lyme Bay Winery Traditional Mead (14.5% ABV), 75cl, £12 Waitrose

Bees and grapes often go hand in hand and Lyme Bay ferment, blend and age theirs on site. A more traditional version, it’s dark amber and savoury with notes of caramelised honeycomb and a waft of elderflower.

Nidhoggr Ginger Mead, (15% ABV), £29.99 generalwine.com

This multi award-wining mead is bold, smooth and slightly sweet with a delightfully warming root ginger finish. Well-balanced and beautiful, this can be served warm or cold. It would be a great base for a hot toddy too!

Gosnells Raspberry Hibiscus Nectar, £32.50 for 12 cans Gosnells.co.uk

An awesome, fruit cider alternative (with 70% less sugar and no nasties too!), this raspberry Hibiscus Nectar is tangy and tart with notes of raspberry and cranberry. In a can, it’s a great point of difference and ‘nectar’ feels much more modern than ‘mead’!

Want to know more about wine in bite-sized, video chunks? Check out the HelenaSips wine course!

If you haven’t tried sake yet, I fully suggest that you do. This ethereal rice wine - yes wine, not spirit - hails from Japan and high quality, fine sake is now widely available across the UK and US, offering us a much more interesting choice when we’re dining out or drinking at home. But let’s start at the beginning: what is Sake and why do you need to know?

What is Sake?

In a nutshell, Sake is an alcoholic wine made with rice and water. It looks very similar to wine made from grapes and typically has an alcohol content of between 13 and 17 % abv. It hails from Japan but recently, there have been sake breweries popping up elsewhere in the world, such as Kanpai in London and Dojima in Cambridge.

Sake is NOT a spirit and the very best Sakes should be drunk chilled like normal white wine, not heated up.

What does Sake taste like?

There are several styles of Sake but they generally share a similar quality of gentle earthiness and a touch of green melon. It’s umami in a subtle way. The closest wine equivalent I can think of to a classic style of Sake is a Muscadet. It also has a fabulous, weighty texture and is incredibly moreish, though could be an acquired taste for some.

Rice polishing and its effect on Sake

In Sake production, the ‘polishing’ ratio of the rice grains used is key to understanding the various quality levels. Here, we talk in terms of how much of the outer layer of the rice grain has been polished away before fermentation. This is because the outer layers contain fats, protein and minerals, while the inner core is mostly pure starch. More polishing generally leads to a cleaner, more delicate flavour so the more polished the grain, the higher quality the Sake! Here are the various levels of quality, based on polishing ratios and a few other things. Naturally, you can expect them to go up in price as you go along:

Futsūshu sake (普通酒) is the entry level stuff we often find heated up in Japanese restaurants. Usually made with rice that’s only slightly polished (90% or more remaining), it retains more of the fats and proteins from the outer grain, which can lead to rougher, less elegant flavours. Unlike premium sake, futsūshu may contain added alcohol, sugar, organic acids, amino acids and other flavour enhancers.

A step up from Futsūshu is Honjozo and Junmai, which both give earthy, everyday styles though in a more elegant and complex way.

Honjozo Sake (本醸造) is where approximately 70% of the grain remains. This is a style that’s quite earthy but a little cleaner than futsūshu with a small amount of distilled alcohol added to lighten body and boost aroma.

Junmai Sake (純米) comes next. When it’s a straight ‘Junmai’ style, it’s fuller-bodied, more earthy and umami-like even though no alcohol is added (‘Junmai’ means ‘plain rice’. ie. no added alcohol). There’s no legal limit to the polishing but it’s often to around 70% remaining or a bit lower.

Next up on the quality ladder are the Ginjo & Daiginjo styles, which are more aromatic and refined styles of Sake.

Ginjo (吟醸) translates as “Elegant brew” and here, 60% or less of the grain remains. A small amount of distilled alcohol added to lift aromas and create a clean, crisp style but there are no additives like sugar. These Sakes are light, fragrant and sometimes floral or fruity, showcasing banana, melon, or even apple flavours. Think of it like a crisp white shirt: elegant, but not extravagant!

Junmai Ginjo (純米吟醸) is an ‘elegant brew’ but without alcohol added, hence ‘Junmai’. Again, 60% or less of the grain remains and no additives are added. It’s also fragrant and clean like Ginjo, but with a rounder, richer mouthfeel with a little more depth and umami, making it more food friendly.

Daiginjo (大吟醸) ‘Dai’ translates as “great” or “very”, so this style is a ‘very elegant brew’, like Ginjo’s luxury upgrade; a designer shirt rather than just a nice one from M&S! Here, 50% of the grain is polished away and some alcohol is added. As a style, it’s highly refined, delicate, perfumed and often silky in texture.

Junmai Daiginjo (純米大吟醸) as you can probably guess, is again a ‘very elegant brew’ with 50% or more of the grain polished away, but as it’s also ‘Junmai’, no alcohol or additives are added. This is the most refined and expressive of all Sake. It’s pure, smooth and complex, with ethereal, elegant aromas and a soft, gentle finish. Welcome to the haute couture of Sake, crafted with precision and purity!

What About Aged Sake?

Aged Sake, known in Japanese as ‘Koshu’ (古酒), which literally means ‘old Sake’, is Sake that has been intentionally matured, often for several years unlike most Sake, which is designed to be consumed young, while fresh. Aged Sake instead develops deeper, richer flavours over time, often showing notes of nuts, dried fruits, soy sauce, caramel mushroom or even leather. Its colour may range from golden to amber due to oxidation and while there are no strict ageing rules like in normal wine, Koshu is typically aged for 3 to 10 years, either in bottles, tanks or casks. The result is a complex, contemplative drink with umami depth, often best enjoyed slightly warmed and paired with richly flavoured dishes like aged cheese, braised meats or even dark chocolate.

Taru Sake (樽酒) is again something different. This is sake that’s been aged or stored in a cedar cask (taru), traditionally made of Yoshino cedar from Nara. This gives it a distinctive woody aroma and flavour, often evoking notes of resin and spiced sandalwood. It’s usually based on Honjozo or Junmai Sakes but the cedar character is the star of the show. These can be challenging for new Sake palates but they do work well with richer food.

What to Eat With Sake?

The beauty of Sake is its versatility, both with food and without. In comparison to wine, it’s less acidic and less bitter and with a pronounced texture, so it sits with many foods very well and is not too much when tasted alone. Sake is never just Sake either, so the choice is huge. There’s dry sparkling, sweet sparkling and a wealth of still styles from the light, dry and floral to richer, darker, wood-aged wines. Below are some killer matches that I tasted recently that went well with non sushi dishes as well as some other suggestions:

Sparkling Sake

Ditch the Prosecco and try a sparkling, slightly sweet sake. If you pair this with a salty starter, like seriously good prosciutto or salty cheese, it absolutely sings as the saltiness complements the sweetness, balancing everything up nicely. We also tried this with calamari and a trio of dips. It was an excellent match with sweet chilli sauce and provided a really interesting match with the tzatziki-style yogurt dip, enhancing the flavours in the wine and the food. It would also be cracking with fish and chips!

Try: Akashi-Tai Junmai Sparkling Sake. £16.50 from Master of Malt.

Elegant & Aromatic Still Sake

If you prefer something a little drier, crisper and more aromatic, more akin to a dry white grape wine such as Muscadet, an elegant Junmai would be wonderful. You can have this alone or with some slightly salted nuts or crisps for a starter or even with a main dish, such as delicately flavoured cod. We tried this with a touch of melon, apple and sun-dried tomato, which let the sake shine. The flavours didn’t fight each other.

Try: Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai Sake. £32.99 for 75cl from Londonsake.com

More Fruity & Floral, Vinous Sake

If you’re thinking you’d rather have something that would take the place of an unoaked, cool climate Chardonnay or even Viognier however, then this Junmai Daiginjo sake is the bomb. With a little more weight, with stronger peachy, melon notes and an almost oily texture, these sakes can take a little more flavour. Cod works, battered or otherwise. Chicken casseroles or roasted chicken or turkey make great matches too!

Try: Nabeshima Daiginjo Sake. £89.99 from Londonsake.com

Bolder, More Savoury and Weighty Sake

Here’s where sake feels a little different! ‘Taru’ sake is aged briefly in cedar barrels, which gives it a hint of yellow colour, makes it more textural and gives it more savoury, umami notes. This is a hefty sake that can stand up to meat or dishes like partridge with pomegranate, raisins and capers in curry sauce, as we found out. It was remarkable how the sake carried all those flavours seamlessly.

Try: Choryo Yoshino Sugino Taruzake, £49.99 from Amazon

Absinthe. The name alone conjures glamorous visions of bohemian Paris, with artists holding court in smoky cafés and the intoxicating allure of the Belle Époque. Once hailed as the muse of poets, painters and visionaries, this mysterious, emerald-hued spirit lovingly nicknamed ‘the Green Fairy’ has a history as dramatic and colourful as its most famous fans. It was banned across the globe for a century but finally, we are seeing its renaissance. And it was worth the wait.

In its heyday, this herbaceous, green spirit was iconic. Ernest Hemingway waxed lyrical about its ‘tongue-numbing, brain warming, idea changing liquid alchemy,’ while artists like Vincent van Gogh immortalised it on canvas. Invented in Switzerland in the late 1700s, absinthe quickly became the French drink of choice, with consumption skyrocketing so quickly that the years before the First World War were dubbed ‘les années vertes’: ‘the green years.’ But this love affair with absinthe came to an abrupt end. A growing panic about its supposed hallucinogenic effects, coupled with dubious scientific claims and a few high profile, artistic ‘mishaps’ meant that by the 1910s, absinthe was banned across Europe and the U.S.

Absinthe Myths Busted

At its heart, the original Swiss style of absinthe is a distilled, high alcohol, unsweetened botanical spirit. It’s flavoured with a complex blend of herbs, the most notable being the ‘holy trinity’ of green anise, fennel and wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), which must all be present - much like juniper must be key in gin. The green tinge should be natural, coming from the chlorophyll in herbs used and traditionally, the spirit would ‘louche’, i.e. go cloudy, when water is added. The myth that absinthe causes hallucinations comes from the fact that there is a trace of a substance called ‘thujone’ in wormwood which, in large quantities, could be considered psychoactive. The truth is, any quantity actually present in absinthe would be negligible. After all, wormwood was also a key ingredient in Vermouth, whose very name translates directly to ‘wormwood’ via the German ‘Wermut’.

It’s only recently, in the last ten years or so, that the absinthe ban has been officially lifted worldwide, with regulations in place ensuring that the production process is legit. Modern distillers who have been biding their time, are quickly embracing innovation, adding regional herbs, rare spices and even barrel-aging techniques to craft exciting new expressions. These absinthes are not just building on the past but elevating it, creating new drinks that are as dynamic as they are delicious. Absinthe is back. And it’s going to be big!

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For those keen to taste a wide range of absinthes, try cocktails or have the full absinthe fountain experience, there are various well-stocked bars in the UK now. None are more passionate however than the Absinthe Parlour at home of the The Last Tuesday Society in East London. Owned and run by the owners of Devil’s Botany - the UK's first absinthe distillery, this is where you’ll get a masterclass with your tipple. Find it at 11 Mare St, London E8 4RP.

The Absintini Cocktail

60ml Absinthe

10ml Dry Vermouth

Lemon peel for garnish

Method: This elegant, creamy Martini is perfect for those just starting out with the spirit. I use Devils Botany London Absinthe as it’s clear, doesn't cloud and has a lighter ABV. Simply combine the Absinthe with the Dry Vermouth in a mixing jar with ice. Stir for one minute and serve in a chilled Martini glass with a lemon twist.

Find more Absinthe cocktail recipes in the book “Spirits of the Otherworld” by Alison Crawbuck and Rhys Everett.

FIVE ABSINTHES TO TRY

Original Swiss Style

Jade 1898 Absinthe, 65% ABV, 20cl, £29.50 thewhiskyexchange.com

This will give you a feel for how absinthe was originally made in its Swiss motherland. ‘Reverse engineered’ from a 19th century bottle, this is a classic, super strong ‘Verte Suisse’ style: pale gold-green, louching to milky green with water to give a full-bodied drink with subtle spice, fennel, aniseed and wormwood flavours

Modern London Libation

Devil’s Botany London Absinthe, 45% ABV, 70cl, £38 Threshers & Devilsbotany.com

The first of its kind and perfect for absinthe newbies, Devil’s Botany have created a fresher, more sippable spirit that doesn’t cloud when diluted. This makes a beautiful twist on a Martini (see recipe above) and is a great substitute for vodka or gin in cocktails.

New American Classic

St. George Absinthe Verte, 60% ABV, 20cl, £24.95 Master of Malt

This new Californian classic was the first legal American absinthe released after the ban. It’s dark and different; a flavoursome style, made by infusing brandy with star anise, wormwood and fennel, then distilling it. A second infusion gives an intriguing herbal hit of mint, tarragon, basil, lemon balm and more.

Complex French

Combier L'Entêté Absinthe Supérieure, 62% ABV, 70cl, £60.74 Master of Malt

A classic, French absinthe with a pale, natural green hue made in a modern style. With its particularly fragrant nose of fennel and aniseed, a slight bitterness on the palate and a silky texture, this is exceptionally elegant and complex when diluted.

Different & Delicious

Devil’s Botany Chocolate Absinthe Liqueur, 24% ABV, 70cl, £26.75, The Whisky Exchange

This quirky and delicious liqueur is neither too sweet nor too strong and makes a brilliant addition to cocktails - or even just sipped chilled over ice for a perfect, after dinner hit! A blend of London absinthe with Ecuadorian cacao, its bittersweet and floral with subtle, exotic spices.

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