Syrah is unquestionably one of the ‘big four’ red grapes that wine lovers should get to know alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot. It has evolved so much over time and place however (while also being subject to a small spelling remix), that its most famous alter ego has its own name: Shiraz. While Syrah and Shiraz are technically the same grape, the name on the label is often the strongest clue to the style of wine in your glass.
In Syrah mode, think of it as Shakespeare’s Hamlet, performed by the likes of Benedict Cumberbatch in a cool, tailored leather jacket: brooding, intellectual and a little bit on the wild side. Syrah is a red grape with a magnetic personality that produces opaque, inky-purple wines that are savoury and structured but smooth and plush with it rather than chewy and tannic. Classic notes for this style feature fresh blackberry, cracked black pepper and smoky, grilled meat with a pinch of olive tapenade and a tell-tale lift of violet and thyme. For wines like this, head to Syrah’s spiritual home in France’s northern Rhône Valley, where famous villages such Saint-Joseph, Hermitage and Cornas specialise in reds made purely with this grape, each with their own nuances. In other parts of the Rhône and southern France, it often features as an important part of the blend, offering its savoury, complex tones to balance out brighter, fruitier varieties like Grenache as well as the more astringent, tangy ones like Carignan. It’s part of the holy trinity of grapes that dominate most Côtes du Rhône and Châteauneuf du Pape blends but it also plays a key supporting role in Languedoc’s Minervois, Corbières, Saint-Chinian and Fitou appellations.
Shiraz on the other hand, is the style that Australia became known for after the grape crossed the water in the 1830s and basked in the sun for a while to beef up a bit, particularly around the OG regions of Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Once thought to be an exotic, globetrotter grape from the city of Shiraz in Persia, DNA testing showed that it did actually hail from France and was, in fact, most likely just mispronounced or mislabelled Syrah that grew beautifully into its new moniker. Shiraz, after all, does share Syrah’s plush structure but tends to be more about bolder, sweeter, red fruit and spicy jam with the odd swirl of liquorice and chocolate fudge, finished off with a kick of white pepper. It’s more Hugh Jackman than Hamlet in all the best, most accessible ways and can be perfectly executed at any price range, whether that’s £5 or £500 (plus) per bottle, like Penfold’s iconic ‘Grange’ wine.
As Syrah/Shiraz has travelled beyond France and Australia, it’s proven itself to be a true vinous chameleon, picking up accents from every new terroir it encounters, making its mark in several notable places. In South Africa’s Swartland for example, Syrah has become a poster child for the country’s modern wine movement with its edgy, herbaceous wines that come from wild fermentations and whole bunch pressing. Names like Mullineux and Porseleinberg offer a new, premium benchmark here. California’s Central Coast is another key region for ‘Rhône Rangers’, where we’ll find everything from Rhône-inspired restraint to full-on, Barossa-style hedonism, depending on who’s behind the winemaking wheel.
You’ll also find delicious mid-way Syrah styles thriving in pockets of Chile, New Zealand, Italy and beyond. These areas can offer a real sweet spot for Syrah, combining some of that Rhône-style, savoury character with a dollop of riper, Shiraz-style fruit. Wherever it’s grown though, this is a noble grape that holds a mirror to its landscape, at times being quietly intense and at others, bold and swaggering. It’s not just a grape, it’s a storyteller and this is why it’s so often a wine lover’s favourite: it always has something new to say - and it’s fabulous with food.
WHAT FOOD TO PAIR WITH SYRAH/SHIRAZ
The classic match
ROSEMARY LAMB WITH GARLIC POTATOES
The classic pairing for Rhône-Style Syrah is roast lamb with heaps of rosemary, and crispy, salty, garlic potatoes. The wine’s herby earthiness echoes the rosemary and caramelised lamb edges and its velvety tannins cut through without overpowering it. Try this recipe from Delicious Magazine.
Something different
MEXICAN MOLE ROJO
A bold, Barossa Shiraz with a bit of age or an earthy, Swartland Syrah both have the depth of flavour, fruitiness and structure to match the mole’s intensity with its complex layers of chillies, cumin, dark chocolate, sesame and spices. Try this recipe from Delicious Magazine.
Wine Recommendations
UNDER A TENNER
Porcupine Ridge Syrah, Swartland, South Africa, £9.25, Sainsbury’s link
Here’s a great example of an easy-going, inexpensive wine that shows a bit of both worlds in terms of style. Packed with juicy plum and pepper spice, it’s rich and a little rustic - perfect for mid week meals like spaghetti bolognaise or a steak and chips.
MID-RANGE
Whistler Wines ‘Shiver’ Barossa Valley Shiraz 2022, £19.50 The Wine Society
This Beautiful Barossa Shiraz proves that bold can also be elegant. Made sustainably by a family-run winery with hand-harvested and foot trodden grapes, this is all about lifted cassis, baking spice and fudge with a hint of dried thyme on the finish and a delightful freshness.
SPLURGE
Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2012, £42 The Wine Society Link
Aged Rhône Syrah from a great producer like Jaboulet is well worth splashing out on and this red ticks every box. Finely textured with notes of tobacco and grilled meat, damson fruit, a whiff of leather, thyme and violet, it opens up with every sip. With game, it will be epic.
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