If you’re in the UK at the moment, it’s DISGUSTING outside and it has been - and will be - for ages. Time for a comforting, red wine, rich in purple plum, damson jam, ripe figs and baking spice. Enter Zinfandel aka Primitivo: the Godfather of wine grapes. It’s also national Pizza Day on february the 9th, so if yours is with spicy pepperoni or nduja, this is the red you’ll want. (Don’t want to read below? Watch the video :)
The Vinalogy
Fancy cosying up with a Hollywood Icon? How about an enigmatic and bold heavyweight of a leading man who demands attention? Someone with a long career history? Throw in a penchant for strong alcohol, an intriguing European heritage and there could be several contenders. If that’s who you’re after then it has got to be Zinfandel: the Godfather of wine grapes, Marlon Brando in a bottle.
Why? Full-on, full-bodied and often high in % ABV (like our friend Mr. B), Zinfandel does not make the most subtle wine. It oozes black cherry jam, sweet prune and spicy fig flavours together with a fair whack of tannin that’ll stain your teeth bright blue. It has been genetically linked to Italy’s Primitivo and Croatia’s Crljenak Kastelanski grapes (did you know Marlon also has European heritage?), but the Californian treatment has made Zin a star with a legacy of old vines dating back over a hundred years. That dollop of sweetness is the perfect foil for chilli spice too.
FUN FACT! ‘White Zinfandel’ is, confusingly, actually a pink or ‘blush’ wine. It’s made from the same red Zinfandel grape, so could really be called ‘Zinfandel rosé’
ZINFANDEL SIPS SAFARI
Zinfandel 1: California
California is the most important region for Zinfandel production in the world with some old vineyards dating back over 100 years. Here in the Golden state, the style is typically full-bodied and rich, with flavours of dark fig, spice, pepper or chocolate. It especially shines in Lodi, where it’s properly powerful and gets a little more elegant towards the coast in Sonoma. Here’s a benchmark bottle that’s great value:
Try: Carnivor Zinfandel, £12 Tesco
Zinfandel 2: Italy
In Italy, we have Primitivo, which is almost genetically identical to Zinfandel and is predominantly grown in Puglia in the south of the country with Manduria being the best known region for it. Primitivo has a long history in Italy and Puglia’s hot, Mediterranean climate allows it to ripen fully, producing bold, rustic wines with intense flavours of sweet fig and chocolate and sometimes, a savoury, balsamic note. Here’s a benchmark bottle:
Try: Terre di Faiano Organic Primitivo, £9.50 until 03/03 (was £11.50), Waitrose
Zinfandel 3: Croatia
Croatia is the ancestral home of Zinfandel, though production is small compared to California and Puglia. Croatian Zinfandel (or rather Crljenak Kastelanski), is seeing a revival, particularly in the Dalmatian coast region, where it makes wines that are usually more restrained with more pronounced mineral and herbaceous notes than their American and Italian counterparts. It’s really hard to find these in the UK but Taste Croatia in Borough Market, London would be a place to look, else try this:
Try: Krolo Crljenak Kaštelanski, 29.99 EURO, croatiarevealed
SPLASH OUT
Louis M. Martini ‘Monte Rosso Gnarly Vine’ Zinfandel 2019, £64 Mix 6 Majestic
Yes, it’s pricey but this wine is a masterclass in going big and bold, but keeping everything cinched in and elegant. The classic iron fist in a velvet glove with layers and layers of flavour. Simply stunning.
Want to get to know more grapes? Check out my bite-sized videos and don’t forget to subscribe for more drinks recommendations and learnies. Cin cin!
Helena x



