As those of us in the UK LONG for spring time, I thought I’d introduce you all to a grape that embodies mountain springs, white flowers and fresh air. It’s Grüner Veltliner: the Spritely Goat Dude of Wine Grapes.
Here’s the Vinalogy…
High on a hill lives our spritely goat herd. This lean old man of the mountain is feeling pretty Grü-V and who wouldn’t with all that steely alpine air, a carpet of pretty white flowers and fresh, green herbs laid out so beautifully before him? This lively, ginger bearded dude has a daily diet of green apples and mineral-rich stream water to keep him young - and he manages to stay as fresh as his Alpine surroundings with every year that passes. It’s just the white peppery streaks in his ginger beard and a creamy, apricot-skin softness that give away his age.
Austria’s flagship white grape Grüner Veltliner is what those in the know drink in restaurants these days as a great catch-all foodie wine. It’s fresh and dry without extremes of flavour, yet has enough about it to stand up to all sorts of dishes from fish and salads to cheese and white meats.
Traditionally drunk young, Grü-V exudes the mountain freshness of those white flowers and herbs, with green apple edging in as well as a sprinkling of white pepper and a kick of ginger on the finish. Some of the top versions can also age incredibly well and elegantly, so much so that they have been likened to white Burgundy with their creamy texture, weight and pineapple-like complexity.
FUN FACT!
‘Grüner’ means green, which aptly describes its yellow-green coloured berries but it also happens to be one of very few wines that can handle asparagus!
GRÜNER VELTLINER SIPS SAFARI
Grüner Veltliner 1: Austria
Try: No 1 Grüner Veltliner, £12.30, Waitrose
As its signature grape, there really is no other place to start other than Austria. For the very best versions, check out the regions of Wachau where they are fairly powerful (look for “Smaragd” on the label) and Kamptal and Kremstal, where they become lighter in style (look for “Steinfeder”), all in the northeastern part of the country.
Grüner Veltliner 2: Czech Republic
Try: Thaya Gruner Veltliner 2024, £11.95, The Wine Society
Lesser known but not for long, the Moravia region in the Czech Republic is becoming increasingly known for high-quality Grüner Veltliner. The region shares a similar climate to Austria and has ideal conditions for it, producing versions that are typically lighter and fresher than Austrian ones.
Gruner Veltliner 3: New Zealand
Try: Yealands Reserve Grüner Veltliner 2022, ND John £16.95
While New Zealand is more commonly associated with Sauvignon and Pinot, we’re now seeing some delicious Gruner Veltliner (note no umlaut in NZ) coming out of Marlborough and Martinborough particularly. These wines tend to showcase a unique twist on the variety, combining New Zealand’s characteristic freshness and vibrancy with Gruner’s classic flavours like white pepper.
Grüner Veltliner is…
🎨 Pale, sunshine yellow in colour
🏋️♂️ Lean, cool, mineral and complex
👃 All about green apple, grapefruit and refreshing acidity
📍 The star white grape of Austria
🍴 Loves all sorts of food and - even asparagus!
A favourite of mine... who knew about the Czech?! Thanks for that recommendation!