What is Mead?
And why is it suddenly having a resurgence?!
There’s no quenching the nation's thirst for ‘super-retro’ drinks. If you’ve been following the renaissance of Orange Wine or Pét Nat with interest, where two, ancient winemaking styles have finally hit the big time thanks to a combination of Tik Tok influencers, wine hipsters and Covid, then listen up. Here’s a look at the resurgence of the ancient honey wine known as Mead and how it’s set to be the next hot drinks trend.
If you’ve even heard of Mead, it's likely to be thanks to syrupy versions in National Trust gift shops adorned with images of mediaeval revellers or bearded vikings. The truth is, Mead is even older than ancient Greeks or Norse swashbucklers. Old fashioned doesn't even cover it.
Mead is one of the oldest alcoholic beverages known to humanity, with roots tracing back to circa 7000 BC in Neolithic China. It’s an ancient tipple that’s simply and traditionally made by fermenting honey with water, though it can also have ingredients like spices, fruit or hops added to enhance its flavour profile. Recently though, global sales have been projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 11 per cent by 2032, which is a lot more than many other beer, wine or spirit. It’s also gluten free, which is a bonus for those who can no longer drink beer (like me)!
Nectar of the Gods
Historically, Mead was embraced by various cultures in ancient Europe as a staple at feasts and ceremonies, often used to honour deities and celebrate important events. Not just a delicious drink, it was a symbol of social and religious significance amongst the Vikings, Celts and Greeks who believed it to have magical properties. They described it as a gift from the heavens and gave it to newlyweds to promote fertility, hence the word ‘honeymoon’! More recent associations come from monasteries in mediaeval times when production of Mead soared, led by monks who refined techniques to produce honey wine fit for royalty parties. Other versions were also found outside Europe with Africa’s ‘Tej’ and Asia’s ‘Mandhu’ believed to be early forms of the boozy beverage. But why now, a few hundred years later, is Mead making a comeback?
Thoroughly Modern Mead. Why is it back?
Recent trends have shown a huge demand for more naturally made drinks, alcoholic or otherwise, which all points back to original, ancient, non-interventionist techniques. This generally means no sulphur, chemicals or sugars added; just the grapes, honey etc. left to do their thing and ferment.
“People are looking for lower intervention, natural and sustainable products as well as being more conscious about nature and bees, making environmentally mindful choices with their purchasing,” Kit Newell from Hive Mind Mead & Brew Co tells me. Couple this more natural approach with an uptick in sales of low-and-no alcohol drinks and honey wine ticks a lot of boxes.
“Honey offers tremendous latitude for experimentation and innovation,” says Tom Gosnell from Gosnells of London. “It’s such an obvious bedfellow for health and flavour and makes a very elegant and satisfying 0% drink. But even at a mere 4%, our nectars have all the subtlety and refreshment of a good 12% sparkling wine. We like the idea of being responsibly happy,” he added.
When asked what else is driving the honey drinks trend and its potential, both makers have a clear eye on the US. Funky branding and quirky flavours aside (Peanut Butter & Jelly, anyone?), it’s clear that the US take gives Mead something more authentic that it didn’t quite have before:
“Makers there have an abundance of honey, are not constrained by historical symbolism and have more favourable alcohol duty rates,” Kit explains.
“They’re championing the liquid first, making something delicious that reflects the terroir of where the bees were foraging. Seeing it was a revelation!” adds Tom.
So, while it’s true that Mead never really went away, its rightful place in the drinking halls of history finally feels like it has been secured. Sometimes we need to travel afar to see what we truly have on our doorsteps.
Some Terminology to Know
Traditional honey meads tend to be around 10% and are fairly similar in style to dessert wines in flavour and consistency. There are, however, several sub categories to be aware of:
Melomel is what you call Mead that has had some fruit added.
Metheglin is Mead that also has spices like vanilla, nutmeg or ginger added as well as, sometimes, tea and citrus peels.
Hydromel is the generic word for mead and is often used to describe lighter, more refreshing meads.
Cyser is Mead fermented with apple juice or cider instead of (or alongside) water. It’s basically mead’s answer to cider. Expect a honeyed twist on orchard fruits.
Pyment is Mead made with grape juice or blended with wine. This category blurs the line between mead and wine and historically was popular when grapes were scarce or of poor quality.
Session Mead is more like a mid strength beer in terms of style and drinkability. Some brands like Gosnells call these ‘Nectars’.
Try these!
Wye Valley Traditional Mead (14.5% ABV), 70cl, £30 Hive Mind Mead & Brew Co.
This vibrant, golden nectar won the Golden Fork Award 2023 for its complex, beeswax-scented profile. Aromatic with a moreish, yeasty note, it’s soft and honeyed with a zinging, citrus acidity.
Viking Cherry Mead, (6% ABV) £14.99 for 75cl, Honey Mead Company
Technically a Melomel, this is bit different and incredibly moreish. A lower alcohol tipple packed with warming honey notes, beautifully balanced by natural, tangy cherry flavours. You can drink this warm too! Their classic Honey Mead version is also worth trying.
Lyme Bay Winery Traditional Mead (14.5% ABV), 75cl, £12 Waitrose
Bees and grapes often go hand in hand and Lyme Bay ferment, blend and age theirs on site. A more traditional version, it’s dark amber and savoury with notes of caramelised honeycomb and a waft of elderflower.
Nidhoggr Ginger Mead, (15% ABV), £29.99 generalwine.com
This multi award-wining mead is bold, smooth and slightly sweet with a delightfully warming root ginger finish. Well-balanced and beautiful, this can be served warm or cold. It would be a great base for a hot toddy too!
Gosnells Raspberry Hibiscus Nectar, £32.50 for 12 cans Gosnells.co.uk
An awesome, fruit cider alternative (with 70% less sugar and no nasties too!), this raspberry Hibiscus Nectar is tangy and tart with notes of raspberry and cranberry. In a can, it’s a great point of difference and ‘nectar’ feels much more modern than ‘mead’!
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