Chardonnay: The ‘Kate’ of Wine Grapes
Think back to your school days. Weren’t there always at least four people in your class with the same first name? Well, in my year, it was Kate and it was hard to work out how you felt about the name because there were so many of them. For example, just as you had decided that you hated the name because of spotty-faced Kate who smelled of potato, you’d meet supermodel-in-training Kate who had a perm and older friends who could get into nightclubs. Suddenly, you wanted to name all your future children Kate. Even the boys.
Well, Chardonnay is the wine version of Kate. The sheer number of styles you’ll find worldwide can make it difficult to pin down your thoughts on it as it responds so strongly to where it’s grown and how it’s made. And as styles of this wine go, Chardonnay moves from the sublime to the ridiculous, being responsible for some of the greatest white wines in the world. Climate and winemaking techniques leave their mark, but the key elements will always be there somewhere: look for a golden colour, ripe melon flavour and a fuller body than many other white varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc. Vanilla and buttery notes are also good indicators that the wine is a Chardonnay. Try it unoaked for a true reading of its merits.
FUN FACT! ‘Blanc de Blancs’ translates as ‘white from white’, as in, white wine from white grapes. In Champagne, this means that the wine is made from 100% Chardonnay as it’s the only white grape that is widely used there. If it were a Kate it would be Cate Blanchett; A-lister stuff and fine boned and ethereal, capable of ageing elegantly.
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CHARDONNAY SIPS SAFARI
France really sets the tone globally for Chardonnay styles that others emulate, so here are the three core ones to know plus a classic, New World comparison:
Chardonnay 1: Chablis, France
Lean, cool and understated, there is only one Chablis and it comes from the slightly separated, northern part of the Burgundy region in France of the same name. Light bodied and very dry with a characteristic chalky texture, It’s the cool climate and soils that do it. This is Kate the Supermodel. Try this at all quality levels from Petit Chablis through Chablis to Premier Cru and Grand Cru!
Try: The Society’s Exhibition Chablis, £17.50 The Wine Society
Chardonnay 2: California, USA
Voluptuous and fuller-bodied, the Californian style of Chardonnay, such as those from Sonoma Valley and Napa Valley, tend to have a richer and more creamy, almost vanilla marshmallow feel. Cheaper versions might be synthetically enhanced with oak chips, but the top-end wines tend to use oak barrels, giving unctuous caramel and vanilla flavours. This is Katie, the Centrefold - but she can still have an Ivy league education!
Try: Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintners Reserve’ Chardonnay 2024, £20.50 (£18.50 mix 6 price) Majestic
Chardonnay 3: Burgundy, France
With plenty of complexity, character and sophistication, throw a little money at a top-end white from one of the villages in Burgundy, such as a linear Puligny-Montrachet style or a riper, fatter Meursault. ‘White Burgundy’ is almost always 100% Chardonnay. This is Katherine, the Oscar winner and it sets a style tone for wines worldwide.
Try: Domaine Faively Meursault, £69.95 N.D. John
Chardonnay 4: Blanc de Blancs Sparkling
If Champage and many other traditional method sparklers are labelled ‘blanc de blancs’ is usually means 100% Chardonnay - and it always will in Champagne. These are lithe, mineral and ethereal in youth, filling out beautifully to add orchard fruit, brioche and spice with a saline core. Stunning.
Try: Laurent Perrier, Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature NV, £66.99 on offer Laithwaites
Also Try
In between black de blancs sparkling and boozy, Californian bombshells, there is every style in between! For delicious versions that are kind of mid way between Burgundy and California, try the likes of New Zealand, Chile and South Africa. You can find decent Chardonnay in SO many places now, including England. too Here are some favourites:
Chile: Tesco Finest Valle de Leyda Chardonnay, £9, Tesco
South Africa: M&S Honeycomb Chardonnay 2024, £10 M&S and Ocado
New Zealand: Kumeau River Village Chardonnay, Auckland, 2025, £14.50, The Wine Society
Australia: Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Chardonnay 2023, Margaret River, £15.50 (£14 mix 6 price) Majestic
England: Guinevere Chardonnay, Gusbourne, Kent, 2023, £40 Gusbourne.com
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